Posted by: pre67vw - 13 September 2006 14:11:09
Is this easy to do? What are the steps? Mine's broken off right where it pokes out of the frame head - is it better to replace the whole thing or just put a bit of flexible line on the end? Thanks. :?

Posted by: zelensis61 - 13 September 2006 20:32:48
Tip: replace the whole metal line with a semi flexible plastic tube that resist the fuel.... I did this to a buggy and it still holds on for at least 15 years. The line runs in the tunnel from a new drilled hole with gommet , put a wire in the tunnel and feel at the end to pick it up. with that wire you pull the new line in the tunnel... To replace the metal line you have to cut a whole in the tunne; the new tube is hold tight to the tunnel with metal tabs.... if you cannot attach the tube it will rattle in the tunnel every street bump you take.... and it is not an easy job.. greets

Posted by: pre67vw - 14 September 2006 11:01:11
Thanks for the reply. I've heard that you can run a new metal line down the tunnel without making a hole, and then use cable ties to hold it down and stop it rattling. Anyone had any experience?

Posted by: six-o-one - 14 September 2006 11:51:29
This might help? [url=https://www.vwdcqinc.org.au/inside63tunnel.html]https://www.vwdcqinc.org.au/inside63tunnel.html[/url] [img]https://www.vwdcqinc.org.au/vwdcqimages/insideabugimages1/63_tunnel.jpg[/img] :shock:

Posted by: Kabman - 12 October 2006 13:49:37
[quote="pre67vw"]Thanks for the reply. I've heard that you can run a new metal line down the tunnel without making a hole, and then use cable ties to hold it down and stop it rattling. Anyone had any experience?[/quote] That's exactly what I did. It was surprisingly easy after all the scare stories I had been told. In fact I would say it was a lot easier than any of the bodges that are suggested like running it under the floorpan or alongside the tunnel. I removed the handbrake and gearlever as well as the front and rear inspection plates to get access. Plenty of wiggling seemed to break the old tabs off. Feed the new pipe in from the rear and out of the front inspection panel, then bend the end up and push it through the hole in the top of the tunnel. I put cable ties anywhere I could reach and have had no problems with it rattling.

Posted by: simonhanloncole - 08 December 2006 15:42:25
Just don't run it inside the car its very dangerous, should be in the tunnel or outside only Simon

Posted by: Chris - 13 December 2006 18:26:32
If carrying out this job, what material pipe should be used ? Something that won't rot or get corroded with the constant flow of petrol.

Posted by: simonhanloncole - 15 December 2006 17:16:09
copper plumping pipe 10mm will do Simon

Posted by: Chris - 15 December 2006 19:43:58
Cheers Simon, But 10mm sounds a tad large, especially as there's a thread on another topic talking about 6mm. I'd go out into the garage and measure the diameter of the pipe already on it but it's p*ssing down out there !! Chris

Posted by: oval '55 - 25 February 2007 21:35:30
i used on my 1302 copper line of 6 mm from an air conditioner technician .or you can get it from AC parts shop i used about 10 meters for gas, and brake lines as well .